Saturday, April 11, 2020

Guatemala -- Fire, Water, History, and Treasure


Jim has always wanted to go to Chichén Itzá in Mexico, but it hasn't risen to the top of my bucket list. I, on the other hand, have been fascinated by Lake Titicaca (and I have no idea why). A brief visit to Guatemala in early 2018 satisfied my desire to see this vast, high-altitude lake and scratch Jim's itch as well. The lake is indeed vast, in fact it is so large that expert builders of reed and bamboo boats inhabit its shores. We met the son of a boat builder who was enlisted to help Thor Heyerdal build the Kon-Tiki to sail across the Pacific Ocean.

Guatemala is also home to rich Mayan history, shared with neighboring Belize and Mexico. The ruins of Tikal aren't as impressive and well-preserved as Chichén Itzá, but Tikal is one of the most important Mayan sites. It also draws much smaller crowds than Chichén Itzá, a definite plus in this world of rapidly expanding tourism. Secondary sites like Tikal can provide valuable insight into history and great photo opportunities without jostling crowds in the process.


Before we experienced either the serene beauty of Lake Titicaca or this rich history of Tikal, we had to pass through flames that weren't exactly metaphorical. As we enjoyed a lovely breakfast on the terrace of our hotel in Antigua, we watched flames shoot out of the Fuego volcano, about thirty miles in the distance. The local people assured us that the mountain spews fire periodically and hasn't erupted in several decades. Guess what happened eight months later? A major eruption that killed nearly 300 people. (We feel a bit like a bad omen. We were also in Puerto Varas, Chile, in 2015 just a few months before the major eruption of the Calbuco volcano. We have pictures of it with its snow-capped lid still intact.)

As usual with an OAT trip, we also had plenty of opportunities to interact with local people. It all started in Guatemala City with a spontaneous encounter with a "goat guy." This gentleman was wandering the streets of the downtown, goat in tow, selling cups of freshly squeezed goat's milk. Our quick-thinking guide asked if anyone would like to try milking the goat, and of course our adventuresome friend Debbie volunteered. She discovered it takes strong hands and a lot of skill to quickly produce a cup of milk. What fun!

And of course, no trip to a new country is complete without a visit to local artisans and the opportunity to support the local economy. We bought sweaters from the family of the Lake Titicaca boat builder, and I bought a beautiful embroidered shirt. But we really fell in love with this stunning glazed pottery mask. I smile when I pass it and think of the fiery volcano, the grandeur of Lake Titicaca, the ancient history of the Mayan ruins of Tikal, and the warmth of the people of Guatemala.

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